1er Les Gravieres Numerus Clausus ---- A proportion, about a third, of the oldest vines (90yrs) are reserved for this cuvée, though some are also kept for the regular. The colour is darker, and the bouquet more rugged, less sensual. No criticism intended, this is designed as a grand vin de garde. There is a much more substantial structure, slightly more acidity as well as tannins, with a wealth of luxurious bit not over opulent fruit in between. Impressive. - 5/5 stars & 91-94pts
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